Fuli: Sixty Stone Mountain(六十石山)

Blossom of tiger lilies

這幾年以來,大家對花東夏末秋初的金針花季都不陌生,除了台東太麻里的金針山外,在花蓮玉里附近有兩座金針山可供遊覽,一座是玉里的赤柯山,另一座是富里的六十石山。基本上,兩座山都各有風味,我媽總是形容赤柯山是害羞的村姑,因為其金針花種植區域多處隱藏於山巒之間,含羞內斂,適合漫遊細品。而有小瑞士之稱的六十石山,地勢變化多端,可遠眺花東縱谷平原,較為大器,尤其伴隨著清晨日出或傍晚夕照的山嵐及雲海,更豐富了夾帶於海岸山脈及中央山脈之縱谷景觀的多樣性。

富里-六十石山
近年來六十石山的名氣已相當響亮,在花季期間更是吸引大量遊客前往,建議大家儘量避免八月週末之賞花巔峰時段,一方面能避開人潮,另一方面也能真正享受山巔溪媚之美。花季當然值得一遊,但六十石山非花季時的風景亦有不同面貌,亦可感受鄉村幽靜而質樸的原始風情。至於交通工具,最好是能自行開車或乘摩托車,如果是團體前來賞花,必須換乘20人以內的小巴士上山。我個人喜好騎乘摩托車,因為花東美景俯首可拾,騎著摩托車,想停就停,優游自在。在省道台九線約308.6公里處,即可看到前往六十石山的指標,沿途亦有指示,到山頂之忘憂亭約30分鐘車程。如沒有交通工具,可安排計程車上山,以半天時間較為適宜,費用約兩千台幣。

The view of Sixty Stone Mountain

When you visit Eastern Taiwan in summer time, there are two mountain areas where the tiger lilies are beautifully blooming near Yuli, Hualien. One is area is Chihke Mountain (赤柯山) and the other is Sixty Stone Mountain (六十石山). Both are worth a visit, even it’s not in the flower season.  Since I just came back from the Sixty Stone Mountain a few days ago, I will post some photos from there first. Hopefully I’ll get a chance to write an article about Chihke Mountain soon.

Survey the East Rift Valley from Sixty Stone Mountain

Sixty Stone Mountain
Sixty Stone Mountain is located in Fuli Township(富里), between the Central Mountain Range and the Coastal Mountain Range. So, from the mountain top, you can look across the beautiful flat East Rift Valley, with its’ farmlands and rice fields stretching into the distant. The story of Sixty Stone Mountain is an interesting one. It is said that in 1959, a horrible flood occurred in some counties of Western Taiwan, which lead to a migration of residents from the west to the area where Sixty Stone Mountain is located now. Since the area was too infertile to cultivate and it was inconvenient to transport agricultural products, the total harvest was only a total weight of sixty stones (Stone:, pronounces as dan in this case, is the unit of measure for grains in Chinese). Therefore, people started to call the mountain Sixty Stone Mountain.

August to Early September
The best season for tiger daily lilies is from August to early September. During this time, the mountains are carpeted in orange tiger lilies, which is a must-to-see when you travel the east coast in summer. If possible, try to avoid weekends, as traffic is normally heavy and there are lots of tourists on the mountain.

Sunrise and Sunset
As for the best time to visit Sixty Stone Mountain, I recommend the early morning, to enjoy the sunrise over Coastal Mountain Range, which accompanies amazing shifts of the mist and cloud as the day is dawning. In the afternoon, the mountains are covered in a variety of colors by the sun setting behind the Central Mountain Range. Both are nice times to survey the whole valley and the tiger lilies fields. Photographers will definitely enjoy a trip to Sixty Stone Mountain, as there are definitely some amazing shots to be taken there.

Getting There & Around
The best way to get to the Sixty Stone Mountain is riding scooter or driving a car.   At 308.6k on the Provincial Highway No.9, you can see a sign going to the mountains and keep going up about 30 mins till the top. If you don’t have your own transport, you can hire a taxi for a half day Sixty Stone Mountain tour, which normally costs NT$2000.

Walking to ______

走向

有人說,在花蓮,看風景是例行公事;
我說,是家常便飯。

Sixty Stone Mountain
Address: Zhutian Village, Fuli Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣富里鄉竹田村)

廣告

Yuli: Walami Hiking Trail(瓦拉米古道)


The Walami Hiking Trail is the east section of the Batongguan Japanese Era Crossing Trail. During the Japanese Occupation Era, the trail was used to be the main passage from eastern Taiwan, across the central mountains, to Dongpu(Nantou) in western Taiwan. In addition to being a key transport route, and a means of collecting wood from the Central Mountains, the trail was also used by the Japanese to control the local Bunun aboriginal tribe, who were hostile to the Japanese occupation. Walami, the name of the trail, is said to have originated from the word “Maravi", in Bunun language. In Bunun, “Maravi" refers to the types of ferns, which flourish throughout the Walami area. Hiking the trail, you will be surrounded by greenery. Not only will you experience the amazing landscapes of the valleys & mountains, but you may also encounter some wild animals, like Formosan rock-monkeys, serows, or even a rare Swinhoe’s Blue Pheasant. In addition to the rich ecosystem, there are a few suspension bridges and ancient Bunun ruins along the trail. April & May is also the perfect season for admiring the fireflies and Tung flowers (Aleurites montana) in the Walami area. There’s so much nature to see in the Walami area, so what are you waiting for? 😉


瓦拉米
瓦拉米古道,為八通關越嶺古道的東段,是日治時代為聯絡東、西部(西至南投東浦)而開闢的道路。「瓦拉米」一詞據說源自於布農族語「Maravi」:蕨─沿途遍布繁茂的蕨類植物,因此日治時期日方便以「瓦拉米」作為此步道的名稱。

在登山前可先去南安遊客中心參觀,提供玉山國家公園及瓦拉米步道的詳細介紹,亦可觀看相關影片(約三十分鐘)。前往登山口途中,亦有南安瀑布及鹿鳴吊橋可供遊覽。而考慮瓦拉米步道的遊客,依個人體能狀況及時間,可考慮三種步行路線(Three suggested hiking routes):

1
路況
基本上山風二號吊橋前,步道平坦而寬敞;之後一路到佳心,坡度變化較大,步道寬度縮小,得特別留心步道旁的峭壁。而佳心到瓦拉米一段,大致上來說平緩好走,至黃麻一帶沿途景色更是開闊迷人。不過,欣賞美景之餘,仍須踏穩自己的每一步,畢竟地勢高聳,只怕萬一。

注意事項
1. 注意自身安全,當心台灣黑熊、虎頭蜂、螞蝗,及夏日常出沒的蛇類。
2. 建議穿著長袖、長褲及登山鞋。請遵守國家公園規範及警示標誌。
3. 玉管處在步道沿途都有設立國家公園規範及警示標誌,請尊重彼此和大自然。而有計畫到瓦拉米山屋過夜的遊客,看到野生動物千萬不可餵食,亦不能將食物、廚餘放置野外,如遭遇不具攻擊性的野生動物來覓食也就罷了,萬一是台灣黑熊,那自己看著辦吧。

基本上,瓦拉米是一個老少咸宜的天然原始步道。玉山國家公園內天然資源豐富、野生動植物種繁多,除了有機會看到台灣獼猴、黃鼬等野生動物外,我亦曾一睹千元鈔票上藍腹鷴的美麗真面目。同時,瓦拉米區域曾是布農族的生活範圍,在日據時代亦設有日警駐在所、招待所…等設施,雖早已拆除,不過在健行期間,仍可窺見幾處舊社遺址。在每年四月至五月更是欣賞油桐花與螢火蟲的好時節,如果有機會來到玉里,可別錯過了。 🙂

More info here:
Yushan National Park Headquarter (玉山國家公園管理處)

Yuli: Yuli Noodle(玉里麵)

來到玉里,就吃玉里麵吧。

不同於油麵煮過後會先泡水、後拌油,玉里麵則是煮熟後直接拌油,因此能保有其口感較細緻、有彈性的特性。一點油蔥酥、豆芽菜、青蔥及芹菜末,放上幾片豬肉,倒入上大骨燉煮的高湯,即是一碗地道的玉里麵。

在玉里,隨處可見就是玉里麵,每家店都各具特色。個人偏好位於中正路、以六十多年歲月熬出的「橋頭玉里麵」。這家老店,沒有冷氣,因此夏天去吃時最好要有「大粒汗小粒汗」的心理準備,但它就像我老爸的專屬麵店,前腳踏進去,酷酷的老闆即便如何不苟言笑,還是會向老爸點個頭;不久後,笑瞇瞇的老闆娘就端著一碗熱騰騰的玉里麵到到我們面前,親切地說:「先拌一拌。」除了玉里麵外,他們的餛飩湯和黑白切亦是我每去必點的在地佳肴─當初在美國時魂牽夢縈的就是這兩味。

對於當地人來說,來到這家店,不只是嚐玉里麵本身的味道,很多時候─是嚐它的文化、記憶,或者更多一點:情分。就像我媽三不五時就吵著要吃一碗再陽春不過的陽春麵,有些東西─簡單、卻美味至極。

A Yuli noodle

Wherever you are, be where you are. So, if you ever come to visit Yuli, you should eat what the locals eat, and in Yuli that means “Yuli noodle”(玉里麵). Yuli noodle are a style of noodle made in Yuli, which looks light yellow in color, has a firm texture. Basically, there are two ways you can enjoy Yuli noodle; dry noodles or in a pig’s broth soup. Both styles are normally seasoned with soy sauce,  sesame oil, and fried dried green onion. Dishes are topped with some sliced pork, finely-chopped celery, and bean sprouts. Before you start to taste it, you should first mix everything in the bowl well, which perfectly brings out the flavors and aromas of the dish.

Where to eat?
Central Yuli is overwhelmed by signboards for Yuli noodle, so you can really find Yuli noodle almost anywhere in town. Personally, I prefer the “Bridgehead Yuli noodles”(橋頭玉里麵) shop.

Why are they call “Bridgehead”?


The name of this noodle shop has to be traced back many years, when it used to be located besides an old bridge, at the crossroads of Zhongzheng Rd. and Minquan St., where a parking lot is situated today. The shop has relocated several times, over the years, finally settling in its current location. Through all that time though, the name and the connection to the old bridge, has remained.


So, it is an old noodle shop, that has been running for over 60 years. They don’t just sell Yuli noodle, there are some kinds of soups and another type of noodle you can choose, if you still have place left in your stomach! My favorite one there is the “Wonton soup", which is best described as “small dumplings in soup". Also, if you’d like to try more traditional dishes (appetizers), there’s a big counter stacked with dried soybean curds, seaweeds, pig’s ears, pork cheek, powder intestines, and etc. You can pick up whatever you want from it, they will heat up the appetizers and top with a little soy sauce, chopped green onion, and shredded ginger, then it’s all ready for you to eat! While some dishes might sound weird for you, but trust me, they’re truly delicious. 😉

Undoubtedly, Yuli noodle is something closely connected to the locals’ daily life. Sometimes the simplest things in life are the best. A simple meal, which is always delicious. Something that locals have been enjoying for decades. In Yuli, this is Yuli noodle.

Bridgehead Yuli noodles (橋頭玉里麵)
Opening hours: 7 pm-2am
Price: NT$ 50 (a Yuli noodle)
Address: No.126, Zhongzheng Rd., Yuli township, Hualien county (花蓮縣玉里鎮中正路126號)