Fuli: Sixty Stone Mountain(六十石山)

Blossom of tiger lilies

這幾年以來,大家對花東夏末秋初的金針花季都不陌生,除了台東太麻里的金針山外,在花蓮玉里附近有兩座金針山可供遊覽,一座是玉里的赤柯山,另一座是富里的六十石山。基本上,兩座山都各有風味,我媽總是形容赤柯山是害羞的村姑,因為其金針花種植區域多處隱藏於山巒之間,含羞內斂,適合漫遊細品。而有小瑞士之稱的六十石山,地勢變化多端,可遠眺花東縱谷平原,較為大器,尤其伴隨著清晨日出或傍晚夕照的山嵐及雲海,更豐富了夾帶於海岸山脈及中央山脈之縱谷景觀的多樣性。

富里-六十石山
近年來六十石山的名氣已相當響亮,在花季期間更是吸引大量遊客前往,建議大家儘量避免八月週末之賞花巔峰時段,一方面能避開人潮,另一方面也能真正享受山巔溪媚之美。花季當然值得一遊,但六十石山非花季時的風景亦有不同面貌,亦可感受鄉村幽靜而質樸的原始風情。至於交通工具,最好是能自行開車或乘摩托車,如果是團體前來賞花,必須換乘20人以內的小巴士上山。我個人喜好騎乘摩托車,因為花東美景俯首可拾,騎著摩托車,想停就停,優游自在。在省道台九線約308.6公里處,即可看到前往六十石山的指標,沿途亦有指示,到山頂之忘憂亭約30分鐘車程。如沒有交通工具,可安排計程車上山,以半天時間較為適宜,費用約兩千台幣。

The view of Sixty Stone Mountain

When you visit Eastern Taiwan in summer time, there are two mountain areas where the tiger lilies are beautifully blooming near Yuli, Hualien. One is area is Chihke Mountain (赤柯山) and the other is Sixty Stone Mountain (六十石山). Both are worth a visit, even it’s not in the flower season.  Since I just came back from the Sixty Stone Mountain a few days ago, I will post some photos from there first. Hopefully I’ll get a chance to write an article about Chihke Mountain soon.

Survey the East Rift Valley from Sixty Stone Mountain

Sixty Stone Mountain
Sixty Stone Mountain is located in Fuli Township(富里), between the Central Mountain Range and the Coastal Mountain Range. So, from the mountain top, you can look across the beautiful flat East Rift Valley, with its’ farmlands and rice fields stretching into the distant. The story of Sixty Stone Mountain is an interesting one. It is said that in 1959, a horrible flood occurred in some counties of Western Taiwan, which lead to a migration of residents from the west to the area where Sixty Stone Mountain is located now. Since the area was too infertile to cultivate and it was inconvenient to transport agricultural products, the total harvest was only a total weight of sixty stones (Stone:, pronounces as dan in this case, is the unit of measure for grains in Chinese). Therefore, people started to call the mountain Sixty Stone Mountain.

August to Early September
The best season for tiger daily lilies is from August to early September. During this time, the mountains are carpeted in orange tiger lilies, which is a must-to-see when you travel the east coast in summer. If possible, try to avoid weekends, as traffic is normally heavy and there are lots of tourists on the mountain.

Sunrise and Sunset
As for the best time to visit Sixty Stone Mountain, I recommend the early morning, to enjoy the sunrise over Coastal Mountain Range, which accompanies amazing shifts of the mist and cloud as the day is dawning. In the afternoon, the mountains are covered in a variety of colors by the sun setting behind the Central Mountain Range. Both are nice times to survey the whole valley and the tiger lilies fields. Photographers will definitely enjoy a trip to Sixty Stone Mountain, as there are definitely some amazing shots to be taken there.

Getting There & Around
The best way to get to the Sixty Stone Mountain is riding scooter or driving a car.   At 308.6k on the Provincial Highway No.9, you can see a sign going to the mountains and keep going up about 30 mins till the top. If you don’t have your own transport, you can hire a taxi for a half day Sixty Stone Mountain tour, which normally costs NT$2000.

Walking to ______

走向

有人說,在花蓮,看風景是例行公事;
我說,是家常便飯。

Sixty Stone Mountain
Address: Zhutian Village, Fuli Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣富里鄉竹田村)

B&B: Justlike Villa(喜歡農莊)


There are a growing number of B&Bs all around Hualien nowadays. But Justlike Villa is definitely one of my favorite B&B. Justlike Villa is located in Jian township, a few minutes from Hualien city, and it’s just the perfect place to enjoy some tranquility away from Hualien city. The building is constructed in an “exposed concrete" style. The general design of Justlike Villa is a combination of modern and traditional. The gray walls are adorned with Chinese red couplets, and all rooms have celestial names, and each room has it’s own unique ambiance. Also, the rooms are furnished with French windows, so that you can see the sunlight streaming through the window, and the green coming into your eyes.   In addition, the most impressive part of staying at Justlike Villa is the hospitality of the owners, Mr & Mrs Chang. They welcomed us with their biggest smile, homemade snacks and fresh tea, which immediately made me feel at home. Make sure you’re up early too, as their healthy and homemade breakfast is a feast that you definitely shouldn’t miss.

來自高雄,曾在台北生活十年的洛哥與韓姐,最後帶著一家子落腳於花蓮的吉安鄉,打造了屬於他們的「喜歡農莊」。問他們為什麼選擇了這?韓姐說:「為了能夠在一起。」一句簡單明瞭的話,道出了「喜歡農莊」的初衷及其所賦予這個家的意義。

Mr. and Mrs. Chang

 為什麼取名為「喜歡」?韓姐說:「當家人相處久了,彼此感情便昇華為雲淡風輕,而那就是一種喜歡。」「而我們相信客人之所以選擇這裡,一定也是有喜歡的成分才會來這。」不久,洛哥笑了笑說:「就是喜歡阿,有甚麼不可以!」我想,是他們的知性與率性同時成就了「喜歡」,而對他們來說,「喜歡」的涵義仍是現在進行式。

 「喜歡農莊」稱之為「農莊」,因為洛哥與韓姐希望客人來不只是住民宿,而是體驗在地的農村生活,除了享受農莊裡的自然與恬靜外,更可見他們家活力十足的鴨子們:呆呆與呱呱,悠閒地在農莊內陪你散步。同時,洛哥與韓姐亦會在一旁準備點心與飲品,無論是手沖咖啡或新鮮果汁,用他們的熱情直接溫暖了旅人的味蕾。

 農莊建築本身的設計理念是依照洛哥與韓姐他們的想法,請設計師規劃而實踐的結晶。灰調的清水模外牆巧妙地貼上了中國的紅色春聯,當現代遇上傳統,煞是衝突,卻巧妙妥協、相得益彰。房間並以農業曆法之「節氣」命名,踏進不同房間便能感受到不同節氣的獨特氤氳。此外,每個房間都有一扇落地窗,舒適的休憩空間佐上戶外滿盈的綠,不喜歡?也難。

 感受著洛哥與韓姐對彼此的相知相惜,及一家大小共同為這個家的傾心傾力,看似平淡的農莊生活,對他們而言,不僅多采多姿,亦蘊含著人生中最深、最美好的滋味。因為喜歡,所以選擇了「喜歡」;因為來到了「喜歡」,你可能會更喜歡。

Justlike Villa

More info here:
Justlike Villa(喜歡農莊)

Yuli: Yuli Noodle(玉里麵)

來到玉里,就吃玉里麵吧。

不同於油麵煮過後會先泡水、後拌油,玉里麵則是煮熟後直接拌油,因此能保有其口感較細緻、有彈性的特性。一點油蔥酥、豆芽菜、青蔥及芹菜末,放上幾片豬肉,倒入上大骨燉煮的高湯,即是一碗地道的玉里麵。

在玉里,隨處可見就是玉里麵,每家店都各具特色。個人偏好位於中正路、以六十多年歲月熬出的「橋頭玉里麵」。這家老店,沒有冷氣,因此夏天去吃時最好要有「大粒汗小粒汗」的心理準備,但它就像我老爸的專屬麵店,前腳踏進去,酷酷的老闆即便如何不苟言笑,還是會向老爸點個頭;不久後,笑瞇瞇的老闆娘就端著一碗熱騰騰的玉里麵到到我們面前,親切地說:「先拌一拌。」除了玉里麵外,他們的餛飩湯和黑白切亦是我每去必點的在地佳肴─當初在美國時魂牽夢縈的就是這兩味。

對於當地人來說,來到這家店,不只是嚐玉里麵本身的味道,很多時候─是嚐它的文化、記憶,或者更多一點:情分。就像我媽三不五時就吵著要吃一碗再陽春不過的陽春麵,有些東西─簡單、卻美味至極。

A Yuli noodle

Wherever you are, be where you are. So, if you ever come to visit Yuli, you should eat what the locals eat, and in Yuli that means “Yuli noodle”(玉里麵). Yuli noodle are a style of noodle made in Yuli, which looks light yellow in color, has a firm texture. Basically, there are two ways you can enjoy Yuli noodle; dry noodles or in a pig’s broth soup. Both styles are normally seasoned with soy sauce,  sesame oil, and fried dried green onion. Dishes are topped with some sliced pork, finely-chopped celery, and bean sprouts. Before you start to taste it, you should first mix everything in the bowl well, which perfectly brings out the flavors and aromas of the dish.

Where to eat?
Central Yuli is overwhelmed by signboards for Yuli noodle, so you can really find Yuli noodle almost anywhere in town. Personally, I prefer the “Bridgehead Yuli noodles”(橋頭玉里麵) shop.

Why are they call “Bridgehead”?


The name of this noodle shop has to be traced back many years, when it used to be located besides an old bridge, at the crossroads of Zhongzheng Rd. and Minquan St., where a parking lot is situated today. The shop has relocated several times, over the years, finally settling in its current location. Through all that time though, the name and the connection to the old bridge, has remained.


So, it is an old noodle shop, that has been running for over 60 years. They don’t just sell Yuli noodle, there are some kinds of soups and another type of noodle you can choose, if you still have place left in your stomach! My favorite one there is the “Wonton soup", which is best described as “small dumplings in soup". Also, if you’d like to try more traditional dishes (appetizers), there’s a big counter stacked with dried soybean curds, seaweeds, pig’s ears, pork cheek, powder intestines, and etc. You can pick up whatever you want from it, they will heat up the appetizers and top with a little soy sauce, chopped green onion, and shredded ginger, then it’s all ready for you to eat! While some dishes might sound weird for you, but trust me, they’re truly delicious. 😉

Undoubtedly, Yuli noodle is something closely connected to the locals’ daily life. Sometimes the simplest things in life are the best. A simple meal, which is always delicious. Something that locals have been enjoying for decades. In Yuli, this is Yuli noodle.

Bridgehead Yuli noodles (橋頭玉里麵)
Opening hours: 7 pm-2am
Price: NT$ 50 (a Yuli noodle)
Address: No.126, Zhongzheng Rd., Yuli township, Hualien county (花蓮縣玉里鎮中正路126號)