Fuli: Sixty Stone Mountain(六十石山)

Blossom of tiger lilies

這幾年以來,大家對花東夏末秋初的金針花季都不陌生,除了台東太麻里的金針山外,在花蓮玉里附近有兩座金針山可供遊覽,一座是玉里的赤柯山,另一座是富里的六十石山。基本上,兩座山都各有風味,我媽總是形容赤柯山是害羞的村姑,因為其金針花種植區域多處隱藏於山巒之間,含羞內斂,適合漫遊細品。而有小瑞士之稱的六十石山,地勢變化多端,可遠眺花東縱谷平原,較為大器,尤其伴隨著清晨日出或傍晚夕照的山嵐及雲海,更豐富了夾帶於海岸山脈及中央山脈之縱谷景觀的多樣性。

富里-六十石山
近年來六十石山的名氣已相當響亮,在花季期間更是吸引大量遊客前往,建議大家儘量避免八月週末之賞花巔峰時段,一方面能避開人潮,另一方面也能真正享受山巔溪媚之美。花季當然值得一遊,但六十石山非花季時的風景亦有不同面貌,亦可感受鄉村幽靜而質樸的原始風情。至於交通工具,最好是能自行開車或乘摩托車,如果是團體前來賞花,必須換乘20人以內的小巴士上山。我個人喜好騎乘摩托車,因為花東美景俯首可拾,騎著摩托車,想停就停,優游自在。在省道台九線約308.6公里處,即可看到前往六十石山的指標,沿途亦有指示,到山頂之忘憂亭約30分鐘車程。如沒有交通工具,可安排計程車上山,以半天時間較為適宜,費用約兩千台幣。

The view of Sixty Stone Mountain

When you visit Eastern Taiwan in summer time, there are two mountain areas where the tiger lilies are beautifully blooming near Yuli, Hualien. One is area is Chihke Mountain (赤柯山) and the other is Sixty Stone Mountain (六十石山). Both are worth a visit, even it’s not in the flower season.  Since I just came back from the Sixty Stone Mountain a few days ago, I will post some photos from there first. Hopefully I’ll get a chance to write an article about Chihke Mountain soon.

Survey the East Rift Valley from Sixty Stone Mountain

Sixty Stone Mountain
Sixty Stone Mountain is located in Fuli Township(富里), between the Central Mountain Range and the Coastal Mountain Range. So, from the mountain top, you can look across the beautiful flat East Rift Valley, with its’ farmlands and rice fields stretching into the distant. The story of Sixty Stone Mountain is an interesting one. It is said that in 1959, a horrible flood occurred in some counties of Western Taiwan, which lead to a migration of residents from the west to the area where Sixty Stone Mountain is located now. Since the area was too infertile to cultivate and it was inconvenient to transport agricultural products, the total harvest was only a total weight of sixty stones (Stone:, pronounces as dan in this case, is the unit of measure for grains in Chinese). Therefore, people started to call the mountain Sixty Stone Mountain.

August to Early September
The best season for tiger daily lilies is from August to early September. During this time, the mountains are carpeted in orange tiger lilies, which is a must-to-see when you travel the east coast in summer. If possible, try to avoid weekends, as traffic is normally heavy and there are lots of tourists on the mountain.

Sunrise and Sunset
As for the best time to visit Sixty Stone Mountain, I recommend the early morning, to enjoy the sunrise over Coastal Mountain Range, which accompanies amazing shifts of the mist and cloud as the day is dawning. In the afternoon, the mountains are covered in a variety of colors by the sun setting behind the Central Mountain Range. Both are nice times to survey the whole valley and the tiger lilies fields. Photographers will definitely enjoy a trip to Sixty Stone Mountain, as there are definitely some amazing shots to be taken there.

Getting There & Around
The best way to get to the Sixty Stone Mountain is riding scooter or driving a car.   At 308.6k on the Provincial Highway No.9, you can see a sign going to the mountains and keep going up about 30 mins till the top. If you don’t have your own transport, you can hire a taxi for a half day Sixty Stone Mountain tour, which normally costs NT$2000.

Walking to ______

走向

有人說,在花蓮,看風景是例行公事;
我說,是家常便飯。

Sixty Stone Mountain
Address: Zhutian Village, Fuli Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣富里鄉竹田村)

B&B: Justlike Villa(喜歡農莊)


There are a growing number of B&Bs all around Hualien nowadays. But Justlike Villa is definitely one of my favorite B&B. Justlike Villa is located in Jian township, a few minutes from Hualien city, and it’s just the perfect place to enjoy some tranquility away from Hualien city. The building is constructed in an “exposed concrete" style. The general design of Justlike Villa is a combination of modern and traditional. The gray walls are adorned with Chinese red couplets, and all rooms have celestial names, and each room has it’s own unique ambiance. Also, the rooms are furnished with French windows, so that you can see the sunlight streaming through the window, and the green coming into your eyes.   In addition, the most impressive part of staying at Justlike Villa is the hospitality of the owners, Mr & Mrs Chang. They welcomed us with their biggest smile, homemade snacks and fresh tea, which immediately made me feel at home. Make sure you’re up early too, as their healthy and homemade breakfast is a feast that you definitely shouldn’t miss.

來自高雄,曾在台北生活十年的洛哥與韓姐,最後帶著一家子落腳於花蓮的吉安鄉,打造了屬於他們的「喜歡農莊」。問他們為什麼選擇了這?韓姐說:「為了能夠在一起。」一句簡單明瞭的話,道出了「喜歡農莊」的初衷及其所賦予這個家的意義。

Mr. and Mrs. Chang

 為什麼取名為「喜歡」?韓姐說:「當家人相處久了,彼此感情便昇華為雲淡風輕,而那就是一種喜歡。」「而我們相信客人之所以選擇這裡,一定也是有喜歡的成分才會來這。」不久,洛哥笑了笑說:「就是喜歡阿,有甚麼不可以!」我想,是他們的知性與率性同時成就了「喜歡」,而對他們來說,「喜歡」的涵義仍是現在進行式。

 「喜歡農莊」稱之為「農莊」,因為洛哥與韓姐希望客人來不只是住民宿,而是體驗在地的農村生活,除了享受農莊裡的自然與恬靜外,更可見他們家活力十足的鴨子們:呆呆與呱呱,悠閒地在農莊內陪你散步。同時,洛哥與韓姐亦會在一旁準備點心與飲品,無論是手沖咖啡或新鮮果汁,用他們的熱情直接溫暖了旅人的味蕾。

 農莊建築本身的設計理念是依照洛哥與韓姐他們的想法,請設計師規劃而實踐的結晶。灰調的清水模外牆巧妙地貼上了中國的紅色春聯,當現代遇上傳統,煞是衝突,卻巧妙妥協、相得益彰。房間並以農業曆法之「節氣」命名,踏進不同房間便能感受到不同節氣的獨特氤氳。此外,每個房間都有一扇落地窗,舒適的休憩空間佐上戶外滿盈的綠,不喜歡?也難。

 感受著洛哥與韓姐對彼此的相知相惜,及一家大小共同為這個家的傾心傾力,看似平淡的農莊生活,對他們而言,不僅多采多姿,亦蘊含著人生中最深、最美好的滋味。因為喜歡,所以選擇了「喜歡」;因為來到了「喜歡」,你可能會更喜歡。

Justlike Villa

More info here:
Justlike Villa(喜歡農莊)

AZ: Salt River Tubing

A relexing picnic on water
If you’re planning to visit Arizona, or somewhere nearby, here’s a recommendation for you: Salt River Tubing. Basically, it’s a picnic, or I would say a small party, on the water. Being in the water definitely makes the day infinitely more enjoyable. Here are elements you definitely need to really enjoy your day tubing: friends, enough snacks, beers, a sunny day, and a positive attitude. In addition to all of the above, of course you also need to rent a tube (or bring your own one), wear some sun block, then, you’re ready to go! All you have to do while tubing is enjoying the floating picnic, with the beautiful scenery along the river, the current will do the rest. After tubing, you might feel a bit of dehydrated, but it is definitely a fun day out. Also you’ll probably come home with a nice tan too. 😉

隨著天氣愈來愈熱,就想起去年六月在AZ相揪去MesaSalt River Tubing的情景,雖然那天真的是曬得慘不忍睹,但樂趣卻也無以附加,於是寫來回顧一下,順便介紹一下這奇妙的水上野餐。

Tubing
Tubing其實跟泛舟大同小異,主要差別在一般泛舟是乘坐6~10人的舟艇,配有划槳,需同心協力前進。而Tubing可選擇個人的tube(橡膠游泳圈),或者是大至可容納十幾二十人的大型充氣墊,順著溪水流,而雙手雙腳就是你的划槳。當初我們是租了個人的tube,我們可以坐或躺在上面,亦可以游泳圈套住身體,兩腳在水中隨意擺動,如水母般。此外,我想Tubing最大的宗旨就是曬太陽和飲酒作樂,不定時也會有一些events,當初我們的主題是marshmallow(棉花糖),因此就可以看見大家可以互相用棉花糖攻擊,之後便可見因吸水腫脹到如饅頭大小的棉花糖四處飄在河邊。

A huge marshmallow!
必備物品
1. 可攜帶自己的tube、泳圈或大型充氣墊,及繩索(連結朋友tube及冷藏箱)
2. 帽子、太陽眼鏡、防曬乳等防曬物品。
3. 泳衣或T-shirt配短褲、舊運動鞋。(不建議夾腳拖,除非你不介意被沖走)
4. 餅乾零食、三明治、啤酒、可樂等,隨心所欲。(但食物須以夾鏈袋封裝,哈哈因為很容易掉到河裡)
5. 足夠的冰塊及冷藏箱。(以防食物臭酸,此外你大概也不想喝到熱熱的啤酒)
6. 換洗衣物、毛巾等。

Don't forget your snacks & beers!

Floating time: 2-4 hrs
整個過程需二到四小時左右,從1號點出發,漂流過程依序經過2號、3號、4(終點),航行時間分別為兩小時、三小時、四小時,可自行選擇結束的地點。當初我們最後停在3號點,因此過程就約莫三小時。

Tubing過程中,會經過充斥仙人掌的平緩河岸、有人瀟灑地騎著馬竄來竄去的森林區,亦有一旁高聳陡峭的山壁。因此,我當時也目睹有不少人搶著爬上去山壁,然後奮力往下一跳的危險動作(請勿模仿)。印象最深刻的部分是,除了可以看到不認識的大家熱情地互擲棉花糖外,喝酒、唱歌、跳舞無不樣樣來,如同一個小型的水上party,酒足飯飽之後,就是大白天的卻一堆人喝得醉醺醺,也算是參與此活動的一大奇特之景。

The floating on Salt River
總而言之,如果你不怕熱、不怕曬,那有機會到
AZ一定要去體驗Tubing看看,水上野餐不僅別有一番風味,亦可見識到純正美式生活的白天版,那也算是不虛此行阿。 😀

Salt River Tubing
US$ 17 (per person or tube)
May~September

More info here:
Salt River Tubing

Yuli: Walami Hiking Trail(瓦拉米古道)


The Walami Hiking Trail is the east section of the Batongguan Japanese Era Crossing Trail. During the Japanese Occupation Era, the trail was used to be the main passage from eastern Taiwan, across the central mountains, to Dongpu(Nantou) in western Taiwan. In addition to being a key transport route, and a means of collecting wood from the Central Mountains, the trail was also used by the Japanese to control the local Bunun aboriginal tribe, who were hostile to the Japanese occupation. Walami, the name of the trail, is said to have originated from the word “Maravi", in Bunun language. In Bunun, “Maravi" refers to the types of ferns, which flourish throughout the Walami area. Hiking the trail, you will be surrounded by greenery. Not only will you experience the amazing landscapes of the valleys & mountains, but you may also encounter some wild animals, like Formosan rock-monkeys, serows, or even a rare Swinhoe’s Blue Pheasant. In addition to the rich ecosystem, there are a few suspension bridges and ancient Bunun ruins along the trail. April & May is also the perfect season for admiring the fireflies and Tung flowers (Aleurites montana) in the Walami area. There’s so much nature to see in the Walami area, so what are you waiting for? 😉


瓦拉米
瓦拉米古道,為八通關越嶺古道的東段,是日治時代為聯絡東、西部(西至南投東浦)而開闢的道路。「瓦拉米」一詞據說源自於布農族語「Maravi」:蕨─沿途遍布繁茂的蕨類植物,因此日治時期日方便以「瓦拉米」作為此步道的名稱。

在登山前可先去南安遊客中心參觀,提供玉山國家公園及瓦拉米步道的詳細介紹,亦可觀看相關影片(約三十分鐘)。前往登山口途中,亦有南安瀑布及鹿鳴吊橋可供遊覽。而考慮瓦拉米步道的遊客,依個人體能狀況及時間,可考慮三種步行路線(Three suggested hiking routes):

1
路況
基本上山風二號吊橋前,步道平坦而寬敞;之後一路到佳心,坡度變化較大,步道寬度縮小,得特別留心步道旁的峭壁。而佳心到瓦拉米一段,大致上來說平緩好走,至黃麻一帶沿途景色更是開闊迷人。不過,欣賞美景之餘,仍須踏穩自己的每一步,畢竟地勢高聳,只怕萬一。

注意事項
1. 注意自身安全,當心台灣黑熊、虎頭蜂、螞蝗,及夏日常出沒的蛇類。
2. 建議穿著長袖、長褲及登山鞋。請遵守國家公園規範及警示標誌。
3. 玉管處在步道沿途都有設立國家公園規範及警示標誌,請尊重彼此和大自然。而有計畫到瓦拉米山屋過夜的遊客,看到野生動物千萬不可餵食,亦不能將食物、廚餘放置野外,如遭遇不具攻擊性的野生動物來覓食也就罷了,萬一是台灣黑熊,那自己看著辦吧。

基本上,瓦拉米是一個老少咸宜的天然原始步道。玉山國家公園內天然資源豐富、野生動植物種繁多,除了有機會看到台灣獼猴、黃鼬等野生動物外,我亦曾一睹千元鈔票上藍腹鷴的美麗真面目。同時,瓦拉米區域曾是布農族的生活範圍,在日據時代亦設有日警駐在所、招待所…等設施,雖早已拆除,不過在健行期間,仍可窺見幾處舊社遺址。在每年四月至五月更是欣賞油桐花與螢火蟲的好時節,如果有機會來到玉里,可別錯過了。 🙂

More info here:
Yushan National Park Headquarter (玉山國家公園管理處)

Yuli: Yuli Noodle(玉里麵)

來到玉里,就吃玉里麵吧。

不同於油麵煮過後會先泡水、後拌油,玉里麵則是煮熟後直接拌油,因此能保有其口感較細緻、有彈性的特性。一點油蔥酥、豆芽菜、青蔥及芹菜末,放上幾片豬肉,倒入上大骨燉煮的高湯,即是一碗地道的玉里麵。

在玉里,隨處可見就是玉里麵,每家店都各具特色。個人偏好位於中正路、以六十多年歲月熬出的「橋頭玉里麵」。這家老店,沒有冷氣,因此夏天去吃時最好要有「大粒汗小粒汗」的心理準備,但它就像我老爸的專屬麵店,前腳踏進去,酷酷的老闆即便如何不苟言笑,還是會向老爸點個頭;不久後,笑瞇瞇的老闆娘就端著一碗熱騰騰的玉里麵到到我們面前,親切地說:「先拌一拌。」除了玉里麵外,他們的餛飩湯和黑白切亦是我每去必點的在地佳肴─當初在美國時魂牽夢縈的就是這兩味。

對於當地人來說,來到這家店,不只是嚐玉里麵本身的味道,很多時候─是嚐它的文化、記憶,或者更多一點:情分。就像我媽三不五時就吵著要吃一碗再陽春不過的陽春麵,有些東西─簡單、卻美味至極。

A Yuli noodle

Wherever you are, be where you are. So, if you ever come to visit Yuli, you should eat what the locals eat, and in Yuli that means “Yuli noodle”(玉里麵). Yuli noodle are a style of noodle made in Yuli, which looks light yellow in color, has a firm texture. Basically, there are two ways you can enjoy Yuli noodle; dry noodles or in a pig’s broth soup. Both styles are normally seasoned with soy sauce,  sesame oil, and fried dried green onion. Dishes are topped with some sliced pork, finely-chopped celery, and bean sprouts. Before you start to taste it, you should first mix everything in the bowl well, which perfectly brings out the flavors and aromas of the dish.

Where to eat?
Central Yuli is overwhelmed by signboards for Yuli noodle, so you can really find Yuli noodle almost anywhere in town. Personally, I prefer the “Bridgehead Yuli noodles”(橋頭玉里麵) shop.

Why are they call “Bridgehead”?


The name of this noodle shop has to be traced back many years, when it used to be located besides an old bridge, at the crossroads of Zhongzheng Rd. and Minquan St., where a parking lot is situated today. The shop has relocated several times, over the years, finally settling in its current location. Through all that time though, the name and the connection to the old bridge, has remained.


So, it is an old noodle shop, that has been running for over 60 years. They don’t just sell Yuli noodle, there are some kinds of soups and another type of noodle you can choose, if you still have place left in your stomach! My favorite one there is the “Wonton soup", which is best described as “small dumplings in soup". Also, if you’d like to try more traditional dishes (appetizers), there’s a big counter stacked with dried soybean curds, seaweeds, pig’s ears, pork cheek, powder intestines, and etc. You can pick up whatever you want from it, they will heat up the appetizers and top with a little soy sauce, chopped green onion, and shredded ginger, then it’s all ready for you to eat! While some dishes might sound weird for you, but trust me, they’re truly delicious. 😉

Undoubtedly, Yuli noodle is something closely connected to the locals’ daily life. Sometimes the simplest things in life are the best. A simple meal, which is always delicious. Something that locals have been enjoying for decades. In Yuli, this is Yuli noodle.

Bridgehead Yuli noodles (橋頭玉里麵)
Opening hours: 7 pm-2am
Price: NT$ 50 (a Yuli noodle)
Address: No.126, Zhongzheng Rd., Yuli township, Hualien county (花蓮縣玉里鎮中正路126號)

A realistic dreamer

台北小孩,長大後移居花蓮玉里;
去了沙漠玩了一小圈,又回到了台灣。
目前往返於台北及玉里,
隨處為家。

喜歡旅行、美食,以照片記錄生活;
喜歡作夢,但很理性,
於是理性作夢。

 

I was born, and grew up, in Taipei, Taiwan. Several years ago, I moved with my family to Yuli (Hualien county), a world away from the bustle of Taipei city life. I’ve also lived in Arizona, USA for a few months, and travelled a little bit while I was there. For me, that experience has been the most amazing part of my life so far. Now, I’m back here in Taiwan – sometimes in Taipei, sometimes in Yuli. For me, I call both places home.

As most people do, I love travelling, delicious food, and photography. I’m a dreamer who is also realistic. My head is in the clouds, but my two feet are on the ground.

59695_10200518125741728_635382443_n

So, dream realistically.